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Nanjing Yun Brocade, a designated Geographical Indication product of China and renowned as "Inch of Brocade, Inch of Gold," boasts a rich history dating back to the 13th year of the Eastern Jin Dynasty (417 AD) when the Brocade Office (Jin Shu) was established in the capital Jiankang (modern-day Nanjing). With a legacy spanning over sixteen centuries, Yun Brocade stands as the sole preserver of traditional characteristics and unique techniques. It continues to employ the ancient Jacquard wooden looms, a craftsmanship reliant on human memory, defying modern machinery.
Named for its brilliant and lustrous colors resembling clouds in the sky, Yun Brocade is distinguished by meticulous materials, intricate weaving, exquisite patterns, and elegant styles. Evolving from the excellence of previous generations, Yun Brocade incorporates valuable experiences from various silk weaving techniques, reaching the pinnacle of silk craftsmanship. Regarded as the "Crown Jewel of Brocades," it represents the highest achievement in Chinese silk weaving, encapsulating the essence of silk craftsmanship and standing as a radiant crystallization of Chinese silk culture.
In ancient times, "Brocade" symbolized the highest level of textile technology. Nanjing Yun Brocade, as the foremost among China's Four Famous Brocades, served as imperial tribute during the Yuan, Ming, and Qing dynasties. Recognized by experts as the final milestone in the history of ancient Chinese brocade craftsmanship, Nanjing Yun Brocade is hailed as the "Oriental Gem" and "Chinese Paragon." It remains a precious heritage of historical and cultural significance for the Chinese nation and the world.
Common Patterns in Yun Brocade:
Nanjing Yun Brocade, with its rich tapestry of patterns, showcases a diverse array of designs that reflect both cultural and artistic sophistication. Among the frequently employed patterns are:
- 团花 (Tuán Huā) - Clustered Flowers
- 散花 (Sàn Huā) - Scattered Flowers
- 满花 (Mǎn Huā) - Full Blossoms
- 缠枝 (Chán Zhī) - Entwined Branches
- 折枝 (Zhé Zhī) - Folded Branches
- 蝙蝠 (Biān Fú) - Bats
- 牡丹 (Mǔ Dān) - Peonies
- 鱼 (Yú) - Fish
- 石榴 (Shí Liú) - Pomegranates
- 桃 (Táo) - Peaches
- 龙 (Lóng) - Dragons
- 凤 (Fèng) - Phoenix
- 麒麟 (Qí Lín) - Qilin
- 江崖 (Jiāng Yá) - River Cliffs
- 海水 (Hǎi Shuǐ) - Ocean Waves
- 如意云 (Rú Yì Yún) - Auspicious Clouds
These patterns are meticulously woven into the fabric, creating a harmonious blend of traditional symbolism and artistic expression. Each motif carries its own significance, contributing to the overall allure and cultural richness of Nanjing Yun Brocade.
The Elaborate Production Process of Yun Brocade
The creation of a piece of Yun Brocade, from pattern design to the final woven product, involves an intricate production process summarized into five main stages: pattern design, lifting plan creation, loom preparation, raw material preparation, and weaving.
Pattern Design: Crafting a pattern begins with enlarging a small design into a larger one, filling it with colors, and meticulously marking a grid on the pattern, referred to as the design template.
Lifting Plan Creation: This step involves using a method reminiscent of knot-tying to structure the pattern into bundles of threads. This process shares similarities with computer programming, where the flower-pattern program is concealed within these intricate knots.
Raw Material Preparation: Yun Brocade primarily utilizes silk, gold thread, and silver thread as its main materials. Depending on the pattern requirements, various embellishments such as feathers from birds like peacocks, known as peacock feather threads, may also be incorporated.
Loom Preparation and Weaving: The crucial Jacquard loom, often seen as a "living fossil" of ancient brocade weaving, plays an essential role in Yun Brocade production. Loom preparation involves installing the required warp threads onto the loom. The steps include creating the template, hoisting the template, preparing the loom's pillars, counting threads, drawing fibers, picking twists, and lifting healds.
Loom Construction: The loom, often referred to as the "Big Flower Tower," is an integral part of the Yun Brocade production. This ancient weaving machine requires meticulous installation of the needed warp threads. Steps such as setting up the pattern cards, hoisting the pattern cards, preparing the loom's pillars, counting threads, drawing fibers, picking twists, and lifting healds are all part of this intricate process.
In summary, the production of Yun Brocade is a harmonious blend of traditional craftsmanship and technological precision, resulting in exquisite woven masterpieces.
