Embroidery is one of China's ancient handicraft traditions, and the Chinese art of hand embroidery boasts a long and illustrious history.
Shang and Zhou Dynasties(approximately 1600 BCE to 256 BCE)——Origins of Fiber
The origins of Chinese embroidery date back to the early Neolithic period, with the earliest evidence found in the Xinjiang region. In ancient times, embroidery was primarily used for adornment in clothing, rituals, and religious ceremonies.
Wei-Jin, Northern and Southern Dynasties to Sui and Tang Dynasties (220 - 907 AD)——Blossoming of Techniques
This period witnessed the gradual development of embroidery techniques. Various styles, such as Wei-Jin and Northern and Southern Dynasties styles, emerged, reaching their zenith during the Tang Dynasty (618 - 907 AD). Embroidery was extensively applied to clothing decoration, exhibiting exquisite craftsmanship and vibrant colors. Tang Dynasty literature and poetry reflected the prominence of embroidery.
Song, Yuan, Ming, and Qing Dynasties (960 - 1644 AD)——Silk Road Spectrum
This era marked the flourishing period of embroidery. Techniques became more sophisticated, and distinct regional styles, such as Su embroidery, Xiang embroidery, and Shu embroidery, emerged. Embroidery expanded its applications beyond the court and religious settings, becoming prevalent in daily life, household items, and art.
Su embroidery, originating from Suzhou, has been documented since the Three Kingdoms period and underwent continuous development through the changing dynasties, reaching its peak during the Qing Dynasty. Early Suzhou embroidery was characterized by incredibly fine embroidery needles, hair-like threads in various colors, and exquisitely harmonized color schemes in the embroidered patterns. Coupled with the skilled craftsmanship of the embroiderers, it became highly cherished. In the Ming and Qing dynasties, advancements in techniques led to the formation of a distinctive style in needlework, color usage, and patterns. The art transformed into a painting with needles, showcasing artistry on the tip of a needle. During the Qing Dynasty, "double-sided embroidery" gained renown across various factions.
Shu embroidery, as the name suggests, originated in Sichuan and is also known as "Chuan embroidery."Compared to Suzhou embroidery, its history is more ancient, possibly due to the abundant silk production in the Sichuan region. Shu embroidery is predominantly crafted from soft satin with vibrant colored threads. During the Eastern Jin Dynasty, Shu embroidery and Shu brocade were renowned as the "treasures of Shu." Starting from the Tang Dynasty, it became tribute, gaining nationwide fame by the Song Dynasty and reaching its pinnacle in the art of embroidery.Due to its intricate stitching techniques, Shu embroidery products are exceptionally exquisite, lifelike, vibrant, and three-dimensional. Still highly revered after a millennium, Shu embroidery continues to captivate enthusiasts both domestically and internationally.
Xiang embroidery, originating from folk embroidery, holds a reasonable claim that skilled artisans abound in the grassroots. With a history spanning over two thousand years, Xiang embroidery incorporates the merits of Suzhou embroidery and Cantonese embroidery. Known for its realistic portrayal, Xiang embroidery captures the essence of flowers, plants, trees, as well as birds and animals.As a Xiang embroidery artisan, one must possess not only embroidery skills but also artistic drawing abilities. The first step in Xiang embroidery involves creating a draft, outlining it on wax paper, then transcribing the pattern onto silk. Achieving lifelike effects requires a combination of various stitching techniques and color combinations. To attain such effects, the color palette for Xiang embroidery is exceptionally rich, with claims that they have threads matching every conceivable color.
Canton embroidery, collectively referring to Guang embroidery and Chao embroidery, is renowned for its vivid colors and intricate needlework. Guang embroidery not only features vibrant colors but also showcases exceptionally fine and detailed stitching when viewed up close. The silk threads used in Guang embroidery are equally stunning, with gold threads and velvet undergoing the skilled hands of Guang embroidery artisans to become renowned embroideries, celebrated both domestically and internationally.Legend has it that Chao embroidery originated from ethnic minorities, characterized by clear textures and exquisite stitching techniques, especially notable for its outstanding gold-thread embroidery. While Chao embroidery may be slightly overshadowed when compared to Guang embroidery, the two together form the unique artistry of Yue embroidery, each contributing its distinctive charm to this exceptional craft.
Qing Dynasty to Early 20th Century (1644 - Early 20th Century)——Era in Transition
During the Qing Dynasty, embroidery remained a part of court culture but gradually integrated into the lives of ordinary people as societal changes occurred. In modern times, there was a renewed interest in embroidery within folk art and the arts and crafts revival movement.
20th Century to Present——Harmony of Heritage and Innovation
In the early 20th century, with modernization, traditional embroidery faced challenges. However, amidst cultural and artistic revivals, embroidery gained renewed appreciation. Contemporary embroidery not only preserves traditional techniques but also incorporates modern artistic elements, becoming a vital expression of cultural heritage and innovation.
